A Coffee Journey: From Mountains to the Sea, the Grand Story of the Bean 🌄☕🌊
Recently, during a visit to Indonesia, I had the opportunity to hear a deep and meaningful story about coffee while enjoying a cup.
Although there's a significant difference between reading information about coffee origins and hearing it firsthand, I will do my best to relay the information as accurately as possible here!
【November 19, 2023: Eco-san's Talk on Coffee Production】
## 1. Unfolding the Map to Coffee's Homeland 🗺️
First, let's consider where we are. Modern people often forget their physical location. We live in an era where we can connect globally via smartphones and social media. However, we might not always be conscious of the land our feet are actually treading.
Today, let's focus on Sumatra Island in Indonesia. This is one of the world's leading coffee-producing regions. If you look at a map, you'll see a series of high mountains on Sumatra, like the island's backbone. This "backbone" actually plays a very important role in coffee production.
Sumatra is a large island located right on the equator, with an area roughly equivalent to Japan's main island of Honshu. The Barisan Mountains, running through the center of the island, form its "backbone." This mountain range creates an ideal environment for coffee cultivation.
Let's look at the specifics:
1. Altitude: The Barisan Mountains have peaks over 3,000 meters above sea level, and their slopes form highlands at 1,000 to 1,500 meters. This altitude is optimal for coffee growth.
2. Climate: Thanks to the mountain range, Sumatra maintains a cool climate despite being on the equator. Coffee plants prefer temperatures between 20-25 degrees Celsius, making this an ideal environment.
3. Soil: Fertile soil, formed by volcanic activity, helps the coffee plants grow.
Now, here's the interesting part. This topography is closely linked to the water cycle, which we will explain next.
## 2. The Dance of Water: From Sea to Mountain, and Back to Sea Again 💧🏔️💧
A crucial element that determines the taste of coffee is "water." Sumatra's water cycle can truly be described as a work of natural art.
Imagine this: Water evaporated from the Indian Ocean turns into clouds and crashes into the Barisan Mountains. What happens then? That's right, it rains! This rain flows down the mountains as rivers and returns to the sea. This is the "water cycle."
Let's examine in detail how this cycle affects coffee:
1. Moist air from the sea hits the mountains:
Moist air blowing in from the Indian Ocean collides with the Barisan Mountains. This phenomenon is called "orographic rainfall."
2. Rain falls:
The annual rainfall is an astonishing 2200-2600mm! Tokyo's annual rainfall is about 1,500mm, so Sumatra gets more than 1.5 times that amount. This abundant rain nourishes the coffee plants.
3. Rainwater soaks into the soil:
Volcanic soil drains well and retains an appropriate amount of moisture. This creates an ideal environment for coffee roots.
4. Coffee plants absorb this water:
Coffee plants absorb this abundant water and nutrients to grow. During this process, soil minerals are condensed into the coffee beans.
5. Excess water flows as rivers back to the sea:
Unabsorbed water flows as rivers back to the sea. In this process, minerals from the soil are also carried, enriching the marine ecosystem.
Thanks to this cycle, Sumatran coffee has a unique flavor. Specifically, the rich mineral content of the soil gives the coffee a deep flavor and sometimes herbal notes.
Furthermore, this high humidity and rainfall enable the "wet-hulling process," which we will explain later. This is the secret to the distinctive flavor of Sumatran coffee. Isn't that interesting? 🤔
## 3. Under the Coffee Tree: The Secret of the Soil 🌱
So, after it rains, where does the water go? That's right, into the soil! The quality of the soil is very important in determining the taste of coffee.
Here's a little experiment. Put water and soil in a plastic bottle and let it sit for 30 minutes. Something interesting will happen. The soil will settle into layers!
- Top layer: Sand (coarsest)
- Middle layer: Silt (medium fine)
- Bottom layer: Clay (finest)
What's the ideal soil ratio? Surprisingly, it's 3:4:3! That means 30% clay, 40% silt, and 30% sand. This golden ratio helps coffee trees grow healthily.
So, why is this ratio important?
1. Sand (30%):
- Role: Enhances drainage
- Effect: Prevents root rot and helps roots breathe
2. Silt (40%):
- Role: Retains moisture and nutrients
- Effect: Provides a stable supply of nutrients to the coffee tree
3. Clay (30%):
- Role: Source of minerals
- Effect: Imparts a deep flavor to coffee beans
This ideal soil creates an optimal environment for the coffee tree's roots. When the roots grow healthily, the above-ground parts also thrive, resulting in high-quality coffee beans.
Sumatran soil is particularly fertile due to volcanic activity. Soil formed by long-term accumulation of volcanic ash is rich in minerals, which aids coffee tree growth. Specifically, it contains abundant minerals like potassium, magnesium, and calcium, which greatly contribute to the flavor development of coffee beans.
Furthermore, this soil is rich in organic matter. This is formed by the decomposition of fallen leaves and branches from the forest, which improves soil water retention and promotes microbial activity. This microbial activity further enriches the soil, creating a positive feedback loop that aids coffee tree growth.
Thus, Sumatran soil is truly a gift of nature, formed over many years. Coffee farmers carefully protect this valuable resource while producing the highest quality coffee.
## 4. The Transformation of the Coffee Cherry: From Harvest to Bean 🍒➡️☕
Now, it's time to harvest the coffee cherries! This is where the real magic begins. Let's take a closer look at the process by which coffee cherries transform into the familiar coffee beans.
1. Harvesting:
Ripe cherries are carefully picked. This is often done by hand and requires skilled precision. This is because only perfectly ripe cherries must be selected and picked. Whether too early or too late, the best flavor cannot be achieved.
- Indication of ripeness: Deep red or reddish-purple color
- Harvest season: Typically after the rainy season (around September to December in Sumatra)
- Harvesting method: Selective harvesting (cherry picking) is common
2. Pulping:
The outer flesh of the cherry is removed. There are two main methods for this process.
a) Dry method (Natural):
- Cherries are dried whole in the sun
- The pulp is removed after drying
- Characteristic: Stronger fruity flavor
b) Washed method:
- Water is used to remove the pulp
- Produces cleaner and more uniform quality
- Characteristic: Cleaner taste
In Sumatra, due to high humidity, the unique "wet-hulling process" has developed. This can be described as a hybrid of the washed and dry methods.
3. Fermentation:
The beans undergo a natural transformation for about 24 hours. During this process, the remaining pulp (mucilage) around the beans breaks down, bringing out the bean's inherent flavor.
- Fermentation indicators: Monitoring pH levels and temperature
- Fermentation time: Adjusted based on temperature and humidity (usually 12-36 hours)
- Caution: Over-fermentation can lead to unpleasant sourness
4. Washing:
The beans are washed with clean water. In this step, any remaining pulp decomposed during fermentation is completely removed.
- Water used: Clean spring water or river water
- Number of washes: Usually 2-3 times
- Importance: Removes impurities that cause undesirable flavors
5. Drying:
This is important! In the Sumatran method, drying takes one day. This drying process is key to creating the distinctive flavor of Sumatran coffee.
- Drying method: Shade drying is common
- Drying time: Shorter than the regular washed method (1-2 days)
- Target moisture content: Around 35-40% (higher than regular washed method)
Here, let's talk in detail about "wet-hulling," a characteristic Sumatran method. This method is a testament to the ingenuity born out of regions with high humidity and abundant rainfall.
Characteristics of the wet-hulling process:
- Parchment (the thin skin covering the bean) is removed while still semi-wet
- Drying time is short (less than half of the regular washed method)
- Moisture remains in the center of the bean → unique flavor formation
While conventional drying methods can take over two weeks, the Sumatran method completes it in 5-7 days! This method gives Sumatran coffee its characteristic "heavy body" and "spicy flavor."
Furthermore, this method is environmentally friendly. It uses less water and has a shorter drying time, making it energy-efficient. It is truly a wonderful ingenious adaptation to the natural environment.
## 5. The Bean's Rest Period: The Magic of Resting 🧙♂️
Once drying is complete, the beans aren't immediately shipped. This is where the truly important "resting" period begins.
What is resting? Simply put, it's a time for the beans to rest. But it's not just about leaving them alone. Occasionally, they are lightly dried to ensure the moisture inside the beans becomes uniform.
This continues for 14 days. Why so long? It's to perfectly adjust the moisture content inside the beans. This process becomes a crucial factor in determining the taste of the coffee.
Let's look at the details of resting:
1. Purpose:
- Moisture equalization
- Stabilization of the bean's internal structure
- Flavor maturation
2. Process:
- Day 1: Dried beans are stored in bags in a warehouse
- Day 2: Rest
- Day 3: Lightly dried again
- Day 4: Rest
This cycle is repeated for approximately two weeks.
3. Mechanism of moisture adjustment:
- Moisture difference between the bean's surface and interior gradually equalizes
- Free water (water between bean cells) changes to bound water (water within cells)
4. Impact on flavor:
- Acidity mellows
- Body increases
- Complex flavors develop
5. Chemical changes during resting:
- Protein denaturation
- Sugar crystallization
- Lipid oxidation (moderate oxidation produces good flavor)
6. Environmental control:
- Temperature: 20-25℃ is ideal
- Humidity: Maintain 50-60%
- Ventilation: Ensure adequate airflow
During this resting period, complex chemical changes occur within the beans. For example, enzymes in the beans gradually work to break down compounds that cause bitterness and create aroma-producing substances.
Furthermore, the cellular structure of the beans also changes gradually, allowing heat to be distributed more uniformly during the subsequent roasting process. This is a crucial factor in determining the final taste balance.
It's interesting that this process is heavily influenced by the local climate and environment. It is precisely because of Sumatra's humid environment that such a slow resting period is possible. In dry regions, beans dry too quickly, and the same effect cannot be achieved.
The importance of resting is not widely known to the general public. However, professional coffee buyers and roasters are well aware that this process significantly affects coffee quality.
Thinking about how the magic of this resting period is hidden in the depth of flavor of your next cup of coffee might make it even more enjoyable, don't you think?
## 6. The Final Touches: Sorting and Export Preparation 🔍📦
Once resting is complete, it's time for the final touches. This is arguably the most crucial stage of quality control. Let's look at each process in detail:
1. Specific Gravity Sorting:
- Purpose: Assess bean quality based on density differences
- Method: Sorting beans using water or air
- Principle: Denser beans are generally of higher quality
Specifically, water sorters or air sorters are used. Water sorters remove beans that float (floaters), which are likely immature or insect-damaged beans. Air sorters blow away lighter beans (chaff).
2. Screening:
- Purpose: Separate beans by size
- Method: Using vibrating screens with different sized holes
- Importance: Uniform size leads to uniform roasting
Screen sizes are typically expressed in 64ths of an inch. For example, Screen 18 means a screen with holes of 18/64ths of an inch (approx. 7.1mm). High-quality coffee is usually Screen 16 or larger.
3. Hand Picking:
- Purpose: Remove defective beans that cannot be removed by machines
- Method: Skilled workers visually sort beans
- Importance: Final quality assurance
This task is very labor-intensive but essential for high-quality coffee. Defective beans include black beans, fermented beans, and insect-damaged beans. Meticulously removing these significantly improves cup quality.
4. Bagging:
- Bags used: GrainPro bags (special multi-layered film bags)
- Capacity: Typically 60kg
- Characteristics: Impermeable to moisture and oxygen, preserving bean quality for a long time
5. Quality Inspection:
- Physical inspection: Moisture content, density, particle size distribution
- Sensory inspection: Cupping (flavor evaluation)
- Chemical inspection: Caffeine content, acidity
And then, preparation for export! What's important here is collaborating with reliable partners. This is because Japanese residual pesticide standards are very strict.
Japan's residual pesticide standards are among the strictest in the world. For example:
- Isoprocarb: 0.01 ppm or less
- Carbaryl: 0.1 ppm or less
- Glyphosate: 5 ppm or less
To meet these standards, meticulous care is required from the cultivation stage. Organic farming and reduced-pesticide farming techniques become important.
Also, the following documents are required for export:
1. Certificate of Origin
2. Phytosanitary Certificate
3. Invoice
4. Packing List
5. Bill of Lading (B/L)
With all these documents in order, the beans are finally ready for their journey to Japan.
After going through all these processes, coffee beans finally reach us. You can imagine how much effort and time from many people are packed into each single bean.
## 7. Harmony with Nature: The Practice of Agroforestry 🌳☕🌳
Finally, I'd like to talk about something very important: "agroforestry." This is a wonderful way to combine coffee production with environmental protection.
What is agroforestry? Simply put, it's a method of integrating forests and agriculture. It's the idea of cherishing the surrounding natural environment when planting coffee trees.
Let's look at the specifics:
1. Leave mountain tops as forests:
- Purpose: Water source protection, prevention of soil erosion
- Effect: Stable water supply, maintenance of biodiversity
2. Plant coffee trees on slopes:
- Method: Plant trees along contour lines
- Advantage: Prevents soil erosion, provides shade
3. Replant forests along rivers:
- Purpose: Water quality protection, ecosystem maintenance
- Effect: Prevents river flooding, provides habitat for wild animals
Specific benefits of agroforestry:
a) Biodiversity protection:
- Birds: Help control pests
- Insects: Aid in pollination
- Mammals: Facilitate seed dispersal
b) Improvement of soil quality:
- Fallen leaves: Act as natural fertilizer
- Root systems: Enhance soil water retention
c) Adaptation to climate change:
- CO2 absorption: Forests act as carbon sinks
- Microclimate regulation: Mitigates extreme temperature fluctuations
d) Economic benefits:
- Multiple income sources: Other crops can also be cultivated
- Risk diversification: Resilience to pests, diseases, and market fluctuations
e) Cultural value:
- Preservation of traditional knowledge
- Strengthening local communities
Let's look at a real example. In the Aceh region of Indonesia, there are coffee farms that practice agroforestry. Here, avocado and banana trees are planted between coffee trees. These trees provide shade, protecting the coffee trees from strong sunlight, while also serving as an additional source of income.
Furthermore, by planting native tree species around the farm, habitats for wild birds and insects are secured. These creatures help pollinate coffee and eat pests.
In this way, agroforestry is a wonderful method that enables sustainable coffee production while maintaining the balance of nature. Protecting the environment and making delicious coffee. This is truly what the future of coffee production should look like.
## Summary: The Story Contained in a Cup of Coffee 📖
Well, that was a long journey, wasn't it? Starting from the sea, crossing mountains, going beneath the soil, and finally arriving as beans to us. A single cup of coffee holds such a deep story.
We've learned that every single bean in the coffee we casually drink is packed with nature's blessings, human wisdom, and passion.
- The ideal environment created by the mountains
- The rich blessings brought by the water cycle
- The unique character of the beans nurtured by the secrets of the soil
- The moments of masterful craftsmanship from harvest to processing
- The magical time of resting
- The highest quality created by rigorous sorting
- The wisdom of agroforestry in coexisting with nature
All of these elements harmoniously combine to bring us wonderful coffee.
The next time you drink coffee, take a moment to reflect. This one cup is filled with the cycle of nature, the wisdom of farmers, and the relationship between us humans and nature.
Through coffee, we are connected to the world and to nature. By knowing the story contained in that one cup, the taste of coffee will become deeper and richer.
May your coffee time become even more special starting today! And let's not forget to be grateful to the producers who work tirelessly to create this wonderful beverage, and to nature that continues to bless us.
Coffee is not just a drink. It is a small universe, condensing the story of our planet into a single cup. ☕🌍💖
